Surfing is Fun ... But is it to Die For?

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This is getting a bit out of hand. Even with advancements in lifesaving techniques in giant surf, life vests and tow assist, guys are still getting pummeled. And it’s gonna be costly for someone real soon if everyone’s in search of the next hundred foot wave.

Are big wave surfers going too big?

First there was Greg Long’s big scare a few years ago, and then Snips finally had his own brush with death in Nor Cal shortly thereafter… can’t we even catch our breath? Seems like every other day someone nearly dies surfing huge waves. I don’t even want to count the number of personal friends I’ve had who died surfing: Mark Foo, Todd Chesser, Donnie Soloman, Peter Davi, and Sion Milosky to name a few. Heck, Jay Moriarty didn’t even die surfing huge waves, but free diving in the Maldives. Seems big wave surfing and free diving the ocean go hand in hand, ala Mark Healy.

I thought surfing was supposed to be carefree and relaxed, no stress? I will never understand that other side of surfing. That side you can die on. Never will. I don’t want a bar of anything over eight feet Hawaiian, really, and even then, just 8-foot Sunset, not 8-foot Pipe. Big difference. But a lot different than a three- to five-foot day at Trestles.

Some surfers, like me, surf to escape death, but it seems others race toward it… and that’s why they are surfing daredevils and the rest of us are not. In the meantime I will continue to pray for all big wave surfers the world over and hope they come to realize it’s not worth dying for. It’s just surfing.—Skip Snead

Image: Big wave champ Makua Rothman's not scared. Bet you would be though. Photo courtesy Instagram @ASP / @damien_poullenot


Posted by: SkipSneadSkipSnead at: 17 Dec 2014 17:53




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This is getting a bit out of hand. Even with advancements in lifesaving techniques in giant surf, life vests and tow assist, guys are still getting pummeled. And it’s gonna be costly for someone real soon if everyone’s in search of the next hundred foot wave.

Are big wave surfers going too big?

First there was Greg Long’s big scare a few years ago, and then Snips finally had his own brush with death in Nor Cal shortly thereafter… can’t we even catch our breath? Seems like every other day someone nearly dies surfing huge waves. I don’t even want to count the number of personal friends I’ve had who died surfing: Mark Foo, Todd Chesser, Donnie Soloman, Peter Davi, and Sion Milosky to name a few. Heck, Jay Moriarty didn’t even die surfing huge waves, but free diving in the Maldives. Seems big wave surfing and free diving the ocean go hand in hand, ala Mark Healy.

I thought surfing was supposed to be carefree and relaxed, no stress? I will never understand that other side of surfing. That side you can die on. Never will. I don’t want a bar of anything over eight feet Hawaiian, really, and even then, just 8-foot Sunset, not 8-foot Pipe. Big difference. But a lot different than a three- to five-foot day at Trestles.

Some surfers, like me, surf to escape death, but it seems others race toward it… and that’s why they are surfing daredevils and the rest of us are not. In the meantime I will continue to pray for all big wave surfers the world over and hope they come to realize it’s not worth dying for. It’s just surfing.—Skip Snead

Image: Big wave champ Makua Rothman's not scared. Bet you would be though. Photo courtesy Instagram @ASP / @damien_poullenot

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