Let's Talk "Big Waves" with the Cave Dr.

kc80.jpg

By Cave Dr.

In my previous article for GJ titled, "Tricks are Not Just for Kids", I wrote about moving from San Clemente to Peahi after High School and the explosion of high-performance surfing that has taken place since. From Buttons and Bertlemann to Julian, Kolohe, Gabriel and of course Slater, let's just say things have gone looney tunes! On a similar trajectory, albeit on a much larger canvas, I want to address the subject of big wave riding.

When I moved to Peahi I lived in a shack down Haumana Road which, at the time, was an off-the-grid dirt road between Hookipa and Honomanu. So while living a Tarzanian lifestyle out in the Maui Jungle, when big north swells hit we would occasionally hear this monster sounding wave roaring and thundering in the near distance and wonder, where the hell is that coming from? So one night on a full moon we ventured out to find this mystery monster wave and found ourselves on a cliff above what is now known the world over as "Jaws". Now this is way before anyone rode the place and we would just sit on the cliff whenever it would break and watch it in complete awe wondering how could you ride this beast? The thing was, it looked perfect. Kind of like "Honolua" on steroids or something! So while I was sitting on the cliff at "Jaws" with my mouth dropped, Martin Potter was visiting Jim Hogan back home in San Clemente surfing T-Street and about to single handedly alter the course of high-performance surfing without even knowing it at the time. Soon Laird would end up moving from Hanalei to Haiku and let's just say the rest is history. Laird found "Jaws", invented tow-in surfing and the whole thing morphed into complete insanity!

So, from original big wave riding heroes like Greg Noll and Eddie Aikau, all the way to the present with guys like Greg Long, Shane Dorian and many more it's fair to say the whole big wave riding thing has gone through hyperspace evolutions similar to what high-performance surfing has done and it's all just so amazing to witness. Nowadays guys are riding every conceivable liquid frothing monster all over the planet! From Todos, Mavericks and Cortes Bank to Shipsterns Bluff, Cyclops, Dungeons, Nazare and who knows where the next monster wave discovery will be found and ridden. The whole thing just blows my mind and I'm sure I'm not the only one. So let me just say as we are watching the Pipe Masters, while the World Title is on the line for Medina, Fanning and Slater, and with Stephanie Gilmore having just took out another World Title at "Honolua", and with a BWWT (Big Wave World Tour) in full swing, what an amazing time it is to be a part of our amazing Sport Of Kings and what an honor it is be part of our lifestyle as we enter 2015! Thanks and good luck to everyone in the New Year! — Cave Dr.

Image: Big wave charging means having even bigger guts. Photo by ASP / @kc80


Posted by: Ghetto JuiceGhetto Juice at: 16 Dec 2014 16:20




Here are some other articles you might be interested in.


Wiki Syntax Enabled: Complete All Fields


By Cave Dr.

In my previous article for GJ titled, "Tricks are Not Just for Kids", I wrote about moving from San Clemente to Peahi after High School and the explosion of high-performance surfing that has taken place since. From Buttons and Bertlemann to Julian, Kolohe, Gabriel and of course Slater, let's just say things have gone looney tunes! On a similar trajectory, albeit on a much larger canvas, I want to address the subject of big wave riding.

When I moved to Peahi I lived in a shack down Haumana Road which, at the time, was an off-the-grid dirt road between Hookipa and Honomanu. So while living a Tarzanian lifestyle out in the Maui Jungle, when big north swells hit we would occasionally hear this monster sounding wave roaring and thundering in the near distance and wonder, where the hell is that coming from? So one night on a full moon we ventured out to find this mystery monster wave and found ourselves on a cliff above what is now known the world over as "Jaws". Now this is way before anyone rode the place and we would just sit on the cliff whenever it would break and watch it in complete awe wondering how could you ride this beast? The thing was, it looked perfect. Kind of like "Honolua" on steroids or something! So while I was sitting on the cliff at "Jaws" with my mouth dropped, Martin Potter was visiting Jim Hogan back home in San Clemente surfing T-Street and about to single handedly alter the course of high-performance surfing without even knowing it at the time. Soon Laird would end up moving from Hanalei to Haiku and let's just say the rest is history. Laird found "Jaws", invented tow-in surfing and the whole thing morphed into complete insanity!

So, from original big wave riding heroes like Greg Noll and Eddie Aikau, all the way to the present with guys like Greg Long, Shane Dorian and many more it's fair to say the whole big wave riding thing has gone through hyperspace evolutions similar to what high-performance surfing has done and it's all just so amazing to witness. Nowadays guys are riding every conceivable liquid frothing monster all over the planet! From Todos, Mavericks and Cortes Bank to Shipsterns Bluff, Cyclops, Dungeons, Nazare and who knows where the next monster wave discovery will be found and ridden. The whole thing just blows my mind and I'm sure I'm not the only one. So let me just say as we are watching the Pipe Masters, while the World Title is on the line for Medina, Fanning and Slater, and with Stephanie Gilmore having just took out another World Title at "Honolua", and with a BWWT (Big Wave World Tour) in full swing, what an amazing time it is to be a part of our amazing Sport Of Kings and what an honor it is be part of our lifestyle as we enter 2015! Thanks and good luck to everyone in the New Year! — Cave Dr.

Image: Big wave charging means having even bigger guts. Photo by ASP / @kc80

Image kc80.jpg